South-eastern Sojourn Part 5

Day 10

It is moving on day again, this time to our final site for this trip, just outside Maidstone at Bearstead. This time, I manage to put the right destination in the satnav. It is a tricky one this; we have to be off our current site by 12 and can’t access the new one before 1pm but it is a journey of under an hour. We try to solve this issue by going via a supermarket near us to purchase bread and milk. The snag with going via a supermarket with a caravan on the back is of course parking and it only works if there is the option to drive through and occupy two spaces. There isn’t. We end up up a dead end in the car park, where there is only room to turn round by dint of high level towing skills and the lack of a barrier pole that had been flattened by another driver. I rush into the shop to make our purchases, whilst Chris circles the car park. Both shop and carpark are huge. I end up chasing after the retreating van to try to catch up with it as it circles past me. The site is almost full but we secure another corner site with a WiFi signal and an adequate television signal if you aren’t to fussy about what channel you watch.

Day 11

The day did not start well. The satnav insisted on adding twelve miles to our journey and taking us to our destination along the M20 and M25. There is a much shorter route along the A20, albeit admittedly one minute longer. No amount of persuasion would persuade the satnav to take us via this route. No problem, I have a map. The A20 runs very close to the site, we follow the signs to the A20. As we progress I am puzzled by the lack of settlements we should be passing according to the map. We have gone rather further than ideal before I realise the issue. A20 yes, right direction no. We turn around where possible and eventually arrive at our destination about forty minutes later and rather a lot of miles further than intended. In retrospect, we should have gone with the satnav, hindsight and all that. Then there was the issue of finding somewhere to park. The nearest car park to our destination was full of cars bringing young footballers in for a tournament. Luckily, someone was just leaving and we were able to acquire their space in the overflow car park. A bonus was that weekend parking was free.

Today’s National Trust property of choice is Quebec House. When planning this itinerary, this was the only day when we were in the area that the house was open and fortuitously, there’s a special event on. I have brought my notebook but somehow have neglected to equip myself with a writing implement. I have to rely on memory and photographs of interpretation boards. Quebec House itself was the childhood home of Major General James Wolfe. Typically, the National Trust have to have a ‘hook’ for a property and here, much is made of the Wolfe connection, even though the family only rented the property for a few years from 1725 to 1738, leaving when Wolfe was eleven.  A successful career soldier, Wolfe helped to put down the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion and later enhanced his career during the Seven Years War 1756-1763 between Britain and her allies against France and hers. His role in the taking of Quebec, which facilitated the end of French rule in North America, made him a hero after he lost his life at the Battle of the Plains of Abraham. His body was brought back to England, By this time the corpse was not in a sufficient state for a death mask to be made, so a servant was used as a model for a bronze bust that was created. Chris uses his knowledge of musketry to explain the workings of a flintlock musket to a fellow visitor.

The special event and the other focus of the property really celebrates not Quebec House but nearby Chartwell. Although, in 1760, both properties were owned by Thomas Ellison; at this point Quebec House was called Spiers. After London Foundling Hospital was established by Thomas Coram in 1739, it soon became obvious that the number of children needing care exceeded the capacity of the London home. A satellite home was established in Westerham, at a house called Wellstreet, in 1760. This is the property now known as Chartwell. Detailed records survive and 469 children were cared for at Wellstreet. Present at Quebec House today is Mrs Wadham, the first Matron of the Westerham annexe when it opened in 1760. Mrs Wadham is full of ‘useful’ remedies to cure the children of all ills. Mistress Agnes would have enjoyed meeting her. When a child entered the hospital, their name was stripped from them and they were given a number. On display are representations of the tokens that were left with foundling children, so that they could be identified should their parents come back to claim them. Although receipts replaced tokens before the Westerham branch opened, some mothers still provided them. There is plenty of information available about life at Wellstreet, which functioned for nine years. There were twelve dormitories and three children shared each bed, which was four foot two inches wide and five feet six inches long.

There is also a FindmyPast demonstration on a large screen and a National Trust volunteer is attempting to help a visitor. I can’t stomach listening to the misinformation for more than a few minutes. I manage to acquire a pencil for future notes.

An off the cuff change to itinerary, which we had already adapted, took us to nearby Chartwell, formerly not just Wellstreet foundling hospital annexe but more famously the home of Winston Churchill. Again, parking spaces are in short supply. First stop the café, where today’s cake of choice is iced cherry cake. The property had been empty for a few years when the Churchill’s purchased it, in 1922, for £5000, having knocked £500 off the purchase price. It cost another £20,000 to refurbish it. We are aware of the connections between Clementine Churchill and Bucks Mills, as well as the links to the Mitford family and there were Mitford signatures in the visitors’ book that was on display. We are given a timed ‘invitation’ to visit the house. We have been allocated am persona of a genuine visitor. I am Churchill’s daughter, Sarah and Chris is Professor F A Lindemann, no me neither.  It seems he was a physicist and became Churchill’s scientific advisor. Some of the rooms were dressed as they would have been when the Churchills were in residence, I particularly liked the dining room and the library. Other rooms were exhibition spaces, which I found less appealing, They told the story of Churchill as an artist, an author and a wartime leader. The grounds were impressive and the views were glorious. We walked round the huge walled garden, so large that you couldn’t help wondering if the effect of being walled was largely lost.

For the homeward journey, we let the satnav take the strain and after forty minutes on the motorway, we were back. A much less stressful and less time consuming, if not very inspiring, journey.

South-eastern Sojourn Part 4

Day 8

There’s a light drizzle so we opt for what we expect to be the most indoorsy of the two options left on our itinerary for this part of the trip and head for Walmer Castle. The importance of coastal defences became even more crucial after the Reformation, which motivated Catholic countries, such as France and Spain, to attack England, with the blessing of the Pope. Three castles were constructed in close proximity at Walmer, Deal and Sandown. Originally, these castles, just a mile or two apart, were linked by ditches and bulwarks in between but these have not survived.

We drive through Dover in the mist and murk to arrive at Walmer. Unfortunately, the indoor portion of the castle is closed pending refurbishment. Constructed in 1539-1540, Walmer consists of a round keep and four surrounding round bastions, protected by a dry moat. Walmer Castle was traditionally the home of the Warden of the Cinque Ports. The original Cinque Ports, Hastings, Hythe, New Romney, Dover and Sandwich, were established before the Norman Conquest by Edward the Confessor. The settlements were self-governing and were exempt from taxes in exchange for providing crewed ships for the defence of the realm, on this strategic part of the coast, at a time before there was a permanent navy. Other towns such as Winchelsea and Rye were later added before the ports declined in importance with the establishment of the Royal Navy. The role of Warden, is now a symbolic one.

During the Napoleonic Wars, Prime Minister William Pitt the Younger held the post of Warden. Debts led Pitt to sell his home nearer to London in Bromley and make Walmer his principal home.  He established the gardens and these were completed by his successor, Lord Liverpool. Later notable Wardens have included the Duke of Wellington, Winston Churchill, William Henry Smith, of W. H. Smith’s fame and the Queen Mother.  We can view the gardens. The dry moat is now part of the gardens and the bastions have acted as a walled garden with some huge ferns and fig trees growing. The gardens are indeed impressive and include pumpkins being grown across a frame in an unusual manner but it is getting increasingly soggy and it isn’t long before my feet are a trifle damp. We cut our loses and head for the café. Having travelled about thirty miles to not view Walmer Castle’s interior, we decided to move a mile or two up the road to the second castle of the day at Deal.

Deal Castle was another Henrician fort, built in 1540. Over succeeding years, the settlement grew up around it, with a naval supply yard established in the 1600s. Deal Castle was captured by Royalist troops in 1648 and was besieged by the Parliamentarians for three months. Successive captains of Deal Castle, were answerable to the Warden of the Cinque Ports and the captain at Deal was senior to his fellow captains at Walmer and Sandown. Although the Captaincy was bestowed as a reward for service to the state, the captains were expected to be working captains and were not allowed to ‘lie out of the castle’ for eight nights in any month without obtaining a licence from the king. From the 1700s, by which time the settlement had developed in to a busy port, the castle’s main function was as a residence, rather than a fortress. The eighteenth century residential wing, was indictive of the lessening of the military function of the castle and by the nineteenth century, the role of captain was a purely ceremonial.

Deal has the advantage of some indoor space that we can view, although, by this time, the weather has improved. There is a central keep with six semi-circular bastions and then an outer curtain wall of six more bastions, surrounded by a dry moat. We tour the interlocking corridors and rooms of the castle, which is spread over three floors. I even conquer the spiral staircase, which has a rope bannister, such that when someone else pulls on it, your hand gets crushed against the stone.

We finish our trip to Deal with a fishing boat fix for the fisherman of my acquaintance.

Day 9

Fortunately, the weather has improved today, so we head out along the A259, which has been a bit of a feature of this trip and which could take us all the way back to  Brighton. We are however not that lost and we drive through Dymchurch and Romney to Dungeness in search of the RSPB reserve. We had intended to explore this stretch of coast on the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch preserved railway but a combination of the cost and the timetable, made us opt for driving. We find ourselves by the nuclear power station and lighthouses, of which there are two. The first lighthouse was built here in 1615. Changes in the coastline, meant that a new lighthouse had to be erected nearer the sea just twenty years later and then it was moved again in 1792. The current lighthouse was built in 1901. There is an opportunity to climb 169 spiral steps to admire the view from the top of the lighthouse. For once, I don’t forget that this really isn’t my thing and our feet remain firmly at ground level.

For this part of our trip we are on the edges of the 100 square miles of wetland that make up Romney Marsh, notorious for its sheep and smuggling history and ingrained in my childhood memories for my much loved Malcolm Saville and Monica Edwards books. Romney is one of England’s three great marshland areas, the others being the Fens and the Somerset Levels. The landscape here was significantly changed by a huge storm in 1287. This altered the course of the River Rother, silted up the harbour at New Romney and towns that had been coastal were left inland. Martello Towers pepper the coastline and in 1809, the Royal Military Canal was constructed as part of the defences of the south-east coast during the Napoleonic wars. Even with today’s sunshine, the landscape is desolate. We can see the traditional wooden, black shacks that are dotted across the marsh, some made from old railway carriages.

Where we are hoping to be, is the Dungeness RSPB nature reserve and we clearly aren’t quite in the right place. The Ordnance Survey Map is silent on exactly where the Visitors’ Centre is. Fortunately, there is a ‘you are here’ type map that helps and we are able to drive round to the reserve. There are plenty of birds to try and photograph on full zoom from a very long way away. I was particularly pleased to spot a black-tailed godwit. Full disclosure. I had no clue that I was looking at a black-tailed godwit. It was identified later from my slightly blurry photograph, in my defence, I was about 150 metres away. For the benefit of those who are interested in what could be seen, the full list includes: stonechats, black-headed gull, great egret, Egyptian goose, coots, graylag geese, Canada geese, avocet, great crested grebe, marsh harrier, sand martin, swift, heron, mute swan, cormorants, mallards, skylarks, magpies, little egret and a black-backed gull of uncertain size. We also hear a robin and a chiff chaff (yes, Merlin again), heard marsh frogs and saw numerous dragonflies and butterflies, including clouded yellow butterflies that are found in this part of the country.