To continue the tale of our recent foray to South Devon. The second day started badly. We were driving to the starting point for our walk when I realised I had left no fewer than three things in the caravan. One of these was my fitness watch. No way was I going to not count today’s steps. We retraced our steps. I wish to put on record that my companion also forgot something but didn’t realise in time to collect it during our step-retracing mission.
The plan was to start at the end of our chosen stretch of coastal footpath in Coleton Fishacre, walk to KIngswear and retrace our steps to complete the leg in the correct order and also to end up back at the car. As one of us is a National Trust life member and the other a National Trust volunteer, we hoped we could park in the car park at Coleton Fishacre, which is a National Trust Property. We duly parked. I even worked out how to scan my membership card in order to obtain a ticket. I had toyed with booking a visitors’ slot for entry to the property, which would have secured us the right to park but decided it was selfish to use up a place whilst entry is limited and we didn’t want to go further than the car park. Mission almost accomplished when the car park attendant loomed. It transpired that no, we couldn’t park there. The man was not open to persuasion, although my companion had a jolly good try. ‘There’s another car park just up the road’, we were told. We could not access the coastal path via Coleton Fishacre. This was all very well. The car park was indeed only about 500 yards away but this gave us access to a different point on the coastal path and with having to do it twice, would add another 1½ miles to a walk that was already at the limit of my likely unpracticed endurance.
Nonetheless, we set off with a spring in our step, enjoying the spectacular views. It is my habit, probably dating from my Girl Guiding days, to keep a note of the birds and wild flowers that I see en-route. My bird identification abilities are probably no better or worse than they ever were. Definitely above average but certainly not expert and I have never been able to recognise bird song. I realised though that my memory for flower names had become somewhat tarnished. When we were walking more regularly, I could identify many more. The flowers were at their best and this is my favourite time of year. Ox-eye daisies, scabious, foxgloves, thrift and ransomes and the last vestiges of bluebells in the small wooded section, which also yielded a jay and a thrush in the bird department. There were many more to add to my list and to begin with, the eight years since we last did a coastal path walk melted away. Don’t get me wrong, it isn’t eight years since we have been for a walk but those walks have been elsewhere, including local stretches of the same path.
To the fitter of my friends, a 7½ mile walk may seem like a gentle stroll. If you’ve never walked the south-west coastal path, be aware, be very aware that, with very few exceptions, gentle stroll it is not. There are hills, lots of them and the path is anything but smooth. I learned two things on this walk. I am definitely not as fit as I used to be and when the guide book says ‘strenuous’ this is not to be taken lightly.
After the first hour, every step we took away from the car was a reminder that it would be a step further in the opposite direction. This stretch of path is blessed with many seats. I sat on most of them. This was ridiculous. We had only last month done several walks of about five miles and here I was three miles in and struggling. It was also the hottest day of the year so far and we were heading towards the heat of the day. We could see our destination in the distance. It seemed, dear reader, a very distant distance. I’d been worried about blisters, well that and the lack of toilets but I always worry about that. Neither of these issues became a problem but I was conscious that I was breathing increasingly heavily. A few years ago, I would probably and possibly foolishly, have carried on regardless. Quitting is not normally in my vocabulary. At the back of my mind though was the niggle that hidden in a place on my medical records that I mostly choose to ignore are the words ‘heart condition’. Was it really sensible to keep on keeping on? We might not yet be half way to Kingswear and then we had to do all this again in reverse. The map suggested that there was a way to come off the path and return to the car by a slightly shorter and certainly less strenuous route. Common sense prevailed and that’s what we did. Altogether we probably walked five miles, although most of it was far from easy walking, this did seem pathetic. I was very annoyed with myself. Then there was the problem of how to proceed. Up to now all our walks have been in the correct order and in the right direction. We could start at KIngswear next time and walk to where we gave up but then what? Could I bring myself to compromise and count this walk as part of the challenge, despite it being in the wrong order and wrong direction? Could I face doing it again the right way round, knowing what I know now about how hard it was? If we can only notch up four miles a time, the remaining 153 miles are going to take a very long time to accomplish and our fitness is hardly going to improve. Always end on a cliff hanger. Stand by for the next instalment to find out what we decided.
Some advice for would-be coastal path walkers. Unless you are super-fit types who think nothing of notching up twenty five miles a day laden with your tent, sleeping bag and all other requisites, don’t leave it until you are of mature years to try to walk 670+ miles round the south-west peninsula. It is so worth it though, the scenery is breath taking. Even if you only walk a small part of the route, everyone should give this a try. I’d also recommend reading Raynor Winn’s The Salt Path about her walk with her husband along the whole length of the path.

























