When we came to Scotland two years ago we visited Osprey Haven at Loch of the Lowes in Dunkeld. Haven, yes. Osprey, no. We were three days too late. This time I am hoping that the jinx that we seem to have on local wildlife might have been left at home. We drive along the edge of Loch Tay and are now in Perth and Kinross; one of the many whisky distilling areas of Scotland. We take a slightly different route from the one recommended by the sat-nav with no ill effects and arrive at Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Reserve. If you decide to come here don’t expect extensive public areas. There are a couple of hides and a viewing window overlooking multiple bird feeders but it is well worth the journey. We begin with a visit to the ‘rest room’ where a notice instructs users not to put ANYTHING apart from toilet paper down the toilet. Ummm, how is that going to work then?
This year more than makes up for the disappointments of our previous visit. The adult ospreys arrived in March from their winter home; they spend the season in places such as Senegal and Gambia. They are taking it in turns to sit on three eggs and ‘nest cam’ provides a great view. The eggs are due to hatch tomorrow. I take a rather grainy photograph of the nest cam screen and one on full zoom (which on my camera isn’t very full) of the nest itself from the hide. I am almost as excited to see reed buntings as I am the ospreys.
We return to the viewing window where a gala performance is in progress. Two red squirrels who stay around long enough for a photo call and numerous birds including yellowhammers and a greater spotted woodpecker. I get some photographs that, considering I have a pretty basic camera and am taking them through glass from a fair distance, come out quite well; some are even in focus. I was somewhat disconcerted to overhear one of the volunteers telling a group of secondary school pupils that they were looking at a ‘yellow tit’ but maybe she was taking the proverbial. Note to overseas readers – there are no yellow tits – blue tits are predominantly yellow (confusing I know) but definitely no such thing as a yellow tit.
We walk for a mile or so along Fungarth Path towards Dunkeld. The ‘fun’ is provided by ‘talking posts’, which play recorded information when you press a foot pedal. The instruction is to ‘keep pumping’, so I pump continuously and rapidly for a few minutes before realising that I have heard the same thing three times. It is jolly hard work all this vigorous pumping so I am please to work out, by post three, that it is, in fact, possible to pump half a dozen times and then stop, whilst the voice keeps going.
We are rewarded on this walk by vast, wooded hillsides misted in bluebells. The Scottish ones seem darker than ours and we learned on our previous visit that there is a move to get these recognised as a separate variety. Framed as they are by birch trees and beeches with their newly unfurled and unspoilt waxy lime green leaves, it was truly magical. No hardship on this walk to have to retrace our steps back to the car.
We take a slightly longer route home, via Perth, in order to buy fuel at a sensible price. Then it is along the A85 through Crieff and back to the van just in time to stop our laundry getting re-washed by the rain. There follows and evening of limbo dancing under wet washing in order to reach our on-board toilet.
It is a lovely sunny day, contrary to the predictions of weather forecasters, although there is still snow on the nearby peaks. We take a walk a mile or so into Killin and follow some of the heritage trail. Here we are in what is described as ‘The Heart of Breadalbane’, or the high country of ‘Alba’, which was an ancient Scottish kingdom. Killin is a natural place for a settlement as it is at the confluence of the Dochart and the Lochay rivers. Our walk takes us as far as Dochart Falls, which are beautiful.
We are out of practice with walking and have done no more than gentle strolls since our accident last year, so we are unsure how we will hold up. We decide to walk for two hours and then turn round. As two hours approach, we enquire of one of the many people heading in a clockwise direction, how far it is all the way round the lake. We are told it is eight miles. It is a little rough in places but flat so we change our plan, as it seems it would only be a little further to complete a circumnavigation and it it always preferable to have a circular route. There are plenty of wildflowers to observe and we see many tadpoles in a large puddle. None of the ramblers’ group coming in the opposite direction seem to have been observant enough to spot these, so we point them out.
Next day and it is off to a supermarket near us to stock up. Pizza seems like a good idea, just a shame that the one we chose was larger than the fridge. I have a way of solving that but not one that is commensurate with watching what I eat. We run the gauntlet that is the stop start, roadwork-ridden M5 and M6. Then a comfort stop at a services near Preston. There are ten long spaces especially allocated for caravans. They contain three caravans, one of which is us and seven things that are patently not, by any stretch of the imagination, caravans. It isn’t as though there aren’t very large signs explaining the situation and ample empty car spaces very close by. I am tempted to remark, ‘what a strange caravan’ in a loud voice but I just manage to restrain myself. The next caravan owner that arrives and finds nowhere to park will be serious p****d off. We know this is the frozen north and folk are hardy up here but I am not sure that, despite the sun, this is really sitting outside in tee-shirt weather however many people are braving the still chilly wind as if this is summer.
I have to say the ‘interesting’ access was worth it. This is a truly beautiful, wooded setting, only yards from the footpath round Derwent Water. We have just got set up and the kettle on as Hazel and Martin arrive. Sadly we can’t offer them a drink as we only have two cups. We chat then head off to Mary Mount to eat – not the most inspiring name but great hunter’s chicken and stupendous views of the lake. Weirdly though, when we tried to book, we were told it was full but we could sit in the bar. In the event we sat outside but the restaurant seemed far from full. We finish the evening with a quick walk round part of the lakeside, heading in a clockwise direction.
Well the new ‘super fast’ router arrived and sat in its box for a while, awaiting the email to say all systems were go. In the end I listened to half an hour of ‘we are experiencing a heavy volume of calls’ in order to ask why there was a delay. ‘Oh, yours is due to go live today’, I am finally told. Like I believe that would have happened had I not telephoned. I carry on working awaiting the email. The telephone and consequently the internet, goes dead. After a quick foray outside to make sure that the lack of telephone hasn’t been caused by workmen abseiling down the church tower (you think I’m joking don’t you?) I intuit that this may be the grand switch over. I bite the bullet and connect the new router. If you’ve been following this saga you will know that this is no mean physical feat, this time a great deal of crawling under the spare bed whilst negotiating piles of books, was involved. Success but no sign of super-fastness or indeed any other sort of fastness. I seem to be able to connect to two versions of my router fast(ish) and not so fast. Unfortunately the signal from the so-called fast won’t penetrate through my two foot thick walls, so I am paying extra for speed I cannot use. I can’t move the router because that is the only place with a telephone line and a spare plug socket. Deep joy, this means another call to the provider to suggest that I might have been warned about this before being signed up. By the way, if you are wondering about
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